BREEDING CATS

Female cats may come into season or ‘on heat’, and start calling at anything from six months onwards. The Siamese and similar breeds are apt to call earlier than the long-haired varieties, while the household pets may call from as early an age as five months. Opinions differ as to the age the female should be when she is first mated, but generally it is considered advisable to wait until she is about nine or ten months old and well developed.
A stud list is published annually by the Governing Council of the Cat Fancy. This gives the names and addresses of the owners of male pedigree cats who are willing to accept queens for stud, together with details of the pedigrees and the fees payable – these are due in advance. The stud’s pedigree should be studied to see that it is not too close to that of the queen’s and, if possible, either the stud or a picture of him should be seen. It should be the aim of anyone breeding pedigree cats to produce kittens of as good a type as possible, by choosing a stud whose good points will help to correct any bad faults in the female. For example, in the case of a long-haired cat, if the female’s ears are too large, a stud should be chosen with small ears, while if the cat is a Siamese with a slightly roundhead, a stud with a good wedge-shaped head should be chosen. It is not to be expected that if the stud chosen is a champion all the kittens produced will be future champions; so much depends upon the two pedigrees and whether a stud suits a particular queen. Even the most experienced breeders find it difficult to breed champions, as will be seen from the small numbers of cats becoming champions each season.
The first signs shown by the female that she is about to start calling are usually her extreme friendliness and restlessness. She may start rushing around, making mewing noises, and then will stop and tread the ground with her back legs, sometimes rolling sober and over and howling. She must be kept away from all male cats if she is to be sent away to stud. It is considered advisable not to send the female away for mating at her first calling, but at the second if she is old enough. Most females come into season quite frequently during the spring and summer, calling every four of five weeks. Some cats call almost continuously until they are mated, while others may call only once or twice during the mating season. A pedigree cat may be allowed two litters a year, depending entirely upon her condition; some breeders prefer their queens to have only one each season, although with the Siamese it is often difficult. The queen should not be mated immediately after bringing up a litter, but should be allowed time to get back into first-class condition.
Before the queen starts calling, arrangements should be made with the owner of the stud chosen for the female to be sent or taken to him when next she calls. When she is definitely calling a telephone call should be made to the stud owner asking if it is convenient to send the queen. Upon receiving assent, arrangements should be made on the second day either to take the queen or to send her by rail in an adequate and warm basket or box clearly marked ‘Live cat – to be called for’. The stud owner must be informed of the time of arrival of the female, so that she may be met. She will probably receive two matings while at the stud’s, in case the first was not adequate. Most owners of studs are kind enough to take the queen a second time should there be no results from the first visit, but there is no obligation to do so. The queen’s owner will receive a copy of the male’s pedigree, together with a note as to the date of the mating, and the probable time of kittening.
On her return, the female must be kept away from all male cats for a t least a week in case the visit was unsuccessful, or in case she may be mated again, as it has been known for double conception to take place. She should not be treated as an invalid, but allowed to lead a perfectly normal life. A good varied and nourishing diet, with not too much horse meat, should be given all through the pregnancy, with fluid magnesia added to the milky drinks to help to correct any acidity in the milk. Any unnecessary handling should be avoided during the last week or so. The kittens can be expected approximately 63-65 days after the mating.
It is exceedingly difficult to know for the first few weeks whether the queen is in kitten. About three weeks after the mating, in some cats a slight reddening of the nipples may be seen. During the last month the cat will increase rapidly in girth and will be unmistakably in kitten.
Small doses of olive oil are most helpful during pregnancy. The cat should be given half an egg spoonful twice a week at the beginning, increasing the dose during the last week or so to three times a week. (Olive oil once a week is also wonderful for good coats).
A week or two before the kittens are due a large box should be provided in a dark corner or in a cupboard, well away from any possible interference. The box must not be too high, as the queen may experience difficulty in getting in and out, and after the kittens are born, if she cannot see into the box she may jump on them. Plenty of clean newspapers should be provided. The queen will probably spend some time tearing them into shreds to make a bed but it is better to leave her until some hours after the kittens are born, when the discoloured and torn papers may be removed and a blanket or towel placed under the queen and kittens.
When the kittens are about to be born, there may be signs of mild in the nipples and the cat may be extra affectionate. She will probably settle down quite readily in the box and will be able to cope with everything herself. Apart from an occasional glance to ensure that all is in order, it is better to leave her alone. If after some hours there are no kittens and she appears to be in pain or distressed, expert veterinary advice should be sought. In all probability all will go well, the queen will have the kittens quite easily and will wash and clean up everything after them. When it appears that all the kittens have arrived, the queen should be given a warm milk drink, the bedding changed, and then the little family should be left in peace. If the queen is a good mother, the kittens will need no attention for the next ten to twelve days. She should be kept on a light diet for at least twenty-four hours after kittening.
Even if she has made her own arrangements for mating, when expecting kittens the household pet will require exactly the same diet and facilities for having her litter as the pedigree cat. After they have been born, the kittens should be sexed and any unwanted one taken to the veterinary surgeon or to one of the animal societies to be painlessly destroyed. This is preferable to drowning, as it is much quicker and kinder. If possible, male kittens should be kept, as it is easier to find homes for them.